The Shenandoah National Park

By the Greene County Record Staff
Published: February 29, 2008

Shenandoah National Park lies astride a beautiful section of the Blue Ridge, which forms the eastern rampart of the Appalachian Mountains between Pennsylvania and Georgia. Providing vistas of the spectacular landscape is Skyline Drive, a winding road that runs along the Blue Ridge through the length of the park.

Most of the rocks that form the Blue Ridge are ancient granitic and metamorphosed volcanic formations, some exceeding one billion years in age. Native Americans used the land for centuries, but left little evidence of their presence. European settlement of the Shenandoah Valley began soon after the first expedition crossed the Blue Ridge in 1716. Many of the settlers came “up river” north to south from Pennsylvania. By 1800 the lowlands had been settled by farmers, while the rugged mountains were relatively untouched. Later, as valley farmland became scarce, settlement spread into the mountains.

In 1926, Congress authorized the establishment of Shenandoah National Park. The Commonwealth of Virginia purchased nearly 280 square miles of land to be donated to the federal government. More than half the population had left the mountain area, and the remaining residents were forced to sell their land and be relocated. The Civilian Conservation Corps built recreational facilities and in 1939, Skyline Drive was completed. Croplands and pastures soon became overgrown with shrubs, locusts and pine; these, in turn, were replaced by oak, hickory and other trees that make up a mature deciduous forest.

Now, more than 95 percent of the park is covered by forests with about 100 species of trees. The vegetative regeneration has been so complete that in 1976, Congress designated two-fifths of the park as wilderness. The largest remaining open area is Big Meadows, located in Madison County, which is kept in its historically open condition. Here, wildflowers, strawberries and blueberries attract wildlife and humans.

Deer, bobcat, turkey and animals that were rare or absent have now returned. Deer and smaller animals are often seen. Bear are found mostly in backcountry areas but are occasionally spotted elsewhere. About 200 species of birds have been reported. A few, such as ruffled grouse, barred owl and woodpeckers are permanent residents. More are seen during the warmer months. These include flycatchers, thrushes, and 35 species of warblers. The park is home to several species of salamanders and two poisonous snakes, the timber rattlesnake and the copperhead. These poisonous snakes are occasionally reported as are several harmless species.

Spring begins in March with the blooming of the red maple, serviceberry and hepatica. Chipmunks and groundhogs appear. The weather may change quickly. The green of leafing trees moves up the ridge at the rate of about 100 feet a day and does not reach the peaks until late May.

Wildflowers bloom during April and May and the large-flowered trillium carpets the forest floor. Pink azalea blooms in late May followed by mountain laurel in June. Migrating birds in their breeding plumage are numerous. The park visitor encounters new sights, colors and sounds everywhere.

Summer brings a mantle of deep green to the ridges and hollows. Many birds are nesting and the catbird, indigo bunting and towhee abound. Fawns are often seen. The variety of wildflowers increases as the summer progresses, and by late summer, they cover the roadsides and open areas. Fall is the season of brilliant colors and crisp days. Many people come to the park to see the fall color, which is usually at its best between October 10 and 25. The southward migration of birds is highlighted by large numbers of hawks moving along the ridge.

Most facilities close about Nov. 1, but Skyline Drive remains open. Winter, with its many clear days and lack of leaves, offers the best opportunities for distant views and finding evidence of the people who once lived here. Skyline Drive is closed during and after periods of bad weather because of the buildup of ice and snow on the road.

Park visitors may enjoy interpretive programs, family campgrounds, backcountry camping, picnics, hiking trails and fishing.

The Greene County entrance to Shenandoah National Park, Swift Run Gap, is located on Route 33, nine miles west of Stanardsville near the county line border.

To report fires, accidents or other emergencies in the park, call 1-800-732-0911.